Sri Lanka aura été une belle révélation. Un des endroits d'Asie les plus propres, un pays où on se sent bien. Les locaux sont d'une gentillesse incroyable, toujours prêt à aider, et la nourriture toute une expérience. Bref, un séjour sans doute un peu trop court, une ou deux semaines de plus ne nous auraient pas déplues.
Sri Lanka was a nice surprise. One of Asia's cleanest country we have visited, a country where we just feel good. The locals are incrediblly nice, always happy to help and the food quite an experience. In short probably a stay a little bit too short. One or weeks more would have been good.
Sri Lanka was a nice surprise. One of Asia's cleanest country we have visited, a country where we just feel good. The locals are incrediblly nice, always happy to help and the food quite an experience. In short probably a stay a little bit too short. One or weeks more would have been good.
Au revoir Sri Lanka, il est temps de prendre l'avion pour Chennai (anciennement Madras), première étape de notre voyage en Inde. Seulement 1h30 de vol sépare Colombo de Chennai, 4e plus grande ville d'Inde. Même si notre arrivée fut quelque peu épique, l'apocalypse que nous attendions ne fut pas au rendez-vous.
Bye bye Sri Lanka, it is time to take the plane to Chennai, (formerly Madras) our first stop in our trip to India. Only an hour and a half between Colombo and Chennai, the 4th largest city in India. Even if our arrival was a little bit rocky, it was not the complete chaos we were expecting.
Bye bye Sri Lanka, it is time to take the plane to Chennai, (formerly Madras) our first stop in our trip to India. Only an hour and a half between Colombo and Chennai, the 4th largest city in India. Even if our arrival was a little bit rocky, it was not the complete chaos we were expecting.
Mais commençons par l'arrivée à l'aéroport. 2 guichets pour les visiteurs pourvus d'un E-Visa, la présentation de ceux-ci et nous avions notre vrai visa ( celle figurant sur le passeport ). Une demi-heure plus tard, nous récupérions nos sacs à dos, le temps de demander où nous pouvions trouver un ATM ( pour retirer des devises indiennes ) et nous étions sortis de l'aéroport où une foule de taxis, pseudo-taxis en tout genre nous attendaient.
Let's start with our arrival at the airport. 2 booths for the visitors who have an evisa. We present them and a few minutes later, we had our real one stamped in our passeport. We then got our backpack, just the time to ask where we can get some cash (to get some rupees) and we were out of the airport, where a crowd of cabs or so-called cabs were waiting for us.
Let's start with our arrival at the airport. 2 booths for the visitors who have an evisa. We present them and a few minutes later, we had our real one stamped in our passeport. We then got our backpack, just the time to ask where we can get some cash (to get some rupees) and we were out of the airport, where a crowd of cabs or so-called cabs were waiting for us.
Cependant notre question initiale restait toujours d'actualité. Où pouvait-on trouver une machine ATM? Et c'est ainsi que nous avons pu parcourir et découvrir l'aéroport international et l'aéroport national (les deux étant attenants) de long en large sur 2 niveaux...et au final, sans résultat. Après maintes questions, maintes réponses bienveillantes, nous avions finalement trouvé au premier étage un ATM...vide.
However, we still did not have any cash and where could we find an ATM ? And this is how we have been able to discover the International and National Airport at length and on 2 levels... in the end, still no cash. After many questions, many nice answeres, we had found and ATM... empty though.
However, we still did not have any cash and where could we find an ATM ? And this is how we have been able to discover the International and National Airport at length and on 2 levels... in the end, still no cash. After many questions, many nice answeres, we had found and ATM... empty though.
Après avoir expliqué pour la xieme fois notre problème , un policier nous indique la ligne du métro. C'est là, votre réponse . Nous voici donc à la station de métro reliant l'aéroport à Chennai, on est passé par "non, il n'y a pas d'ATM" à "l'ATM se trouve à l'aéroport international". Vous êtes sûrs, dodelinement de la tête de gauche à droite et d'un sourire. Traduire oui, oui... du moins on croit.
After explaining one more time our problem, a police officer designated the metro station. So, here we are again walking to the metro station looking for the ATM. We ask again, we get a nod from the head from left to link and a smile. Translation: yes, yes... at least we think.
After explaining one more time our problem, a police officer designated the metro station. So, here we are again walking to the metro station looking for the ATM. We ask again, we get a nod from the head from left to link and a smile. Translation: yes, yes... at least we think.
Toujours avec nos sacs à dos , nous voici repartis en quête de cette fameuse machine. Rien. Nous voulions tenter d'acheter une carte SIM pour notre cellulaire, pour pouvoir demander un Uber et aller à Chennai et le long du chemin trouver un ATM. Impossible, pas de carte SIM .
Still with our backpacks, we are still looking for the ATM. Nothing. We wanted to buy a SIM card for our cell, to call an Uber car in order to go to Chennai and find an ATM along the way. Impossible to buy a SIM card at the airport.
Still with our backpacks, we are still looking for the ATM. Nothing. We wanted to buy a SIM card for our cell, to call an Uber car in order to go to Chennai and find an ATM along the way. Impossible to buy a SIM card at the airport.
Nous avons appris par la suite que le gouvernement indien n'autorisait plus les visiteurs d'obtenir une carte SIM , question de sécurité...mouais.
Later, we learnt that the Indian Government does no longer authorize tourists to buy a SIM card for security reasons... not convinced !
Later, we learnt that the Indian Government does no longer authorize tourists to buy a SIM card for security reasons... not convinced !
Sur ce, nous croisons la route de 2 employées de l'aéroport qui nous apprend que OLA, similaire à Uber possède un kiosque à l'aéroport international et nous repartons...la suite, pas de kiosque. Nous recroisons nos 2 employées qui s'excusent ( le kiosque en question avait sûrement fermé précipitamment ) et nous indiquent qu'un autre kiosque est ouvert à coup sûr à l'aéroport national. Sûr? oui, oui et nouveau dodelinement de la tête avec un sourire. Françoise n'a pas le cou assez souple et quand elle essaie de dodeliner de la tête, c'est tout le haut du corps qui bouge. Bon, elle va avoir le temps de s'entraîner ! Au fait, on n'a jamais pu trouver l'endroit. Il vaut mieux rire !
We meet a couple of employees of the Airport who tell us that we can go to the OLA booth (the equivalent of Uber) and they will call a car for us. We just need to go back to the International arrivals. No Ola booth there ! We meet our 2 employees again who are sorry and tell us that we can go back to the National arrival and for sure, we will find a OLA booth there. Are you sure ? yes, yes, and again, a nod of the head from left to right with a smile. Françoise's neck is just not flexible enough and when she tries to nod the Indian way from left to right, all the top part of her body moves. She is going to have time to train. In the end, we never found the booth. We decided to laugh !
We meet a couple of employees of the Airport who tell us that we can go to the OLA booth (the equivalent of Uber) and they will call a car for us. We just need to go back to the International arrivals. No Ola booth there ! We meet our 2 employees again who are sorry and tell us that we can go back to the National arrival and for sure, we will find a OLA booth there. Are you sure ? yes, yes, and again, a nod of the head from left to right with a smile. Françoise's neck is just not flexible enough and when she tries to nod the Indian way from left to right, all the top part of her body moves. She is going to have time to train. In the end, we never found the booth. We decided to laugh !
De dépit, on trouve un kiosque pour "prepaid taxi", c'est-à-dire que nous sommes censés payer avant de prendre le taxi.. Ça y est, on y était, nous allions pouvoir quitter l'aéroport sauf que l'endroit ne prenait pas les cartes de crédit internationales seulement du cash ou une carte indienne.
Finally, we find a prepaid taxi booth where we are supposed to pay prior to take a cab. We are going to be able to leave the airport except that they take only cash or a national credit card, not any international credit card.
Finally, we find a prepaid taxi booth where we are supposed to pay prior to take a cab. We are going to be able to leave the airport except that they take only cash or a national credit card, not any international credit card.
Là, nous étions fermement décidés à occuper les lieux jusqu'à temps qu'ils nous trouvent une solution. 3 employés, beaucoup de discussions et 850 roupies plus tard, nous avions les pieds dans un taxi dont le chauffeur avait pour mission de nous arrêter au premier ATM sur le parcours de 35 kilomètres nécessaires pour rejoindre notre hôtel. 2 guichets automatiques plus tard, le premier étant vide aussi, nous avons réussi à retirer des roupies.
We had decided not to leave until they found us a solution. 3 employees, a lot of talking and after being told 850 rupees, we were aboard a taxi whose mission was to stop us in an ATM on the way to our hotel 35 kilometers away from the airport. 2 ATM later, the first being empty too, we were able to get some rupees.
Et voilà comment après 3 heures, nous sommes finalement arrivés à notre hôtel.
And this is how, 3 hours later, we made it to our hotel.
Et notre premier repas se fera à l'hôtel avec bière indienne, Kingfisher et premier curry. Absolument délicieux, assez épicé mais velouté et parfumé à souhait !
And our first meal in India will be at our hotel with an Indian beer, Kingfisher and our first curry. Absolutely exquisite, fairly spicy but creamy and with many aromes!
We had decided not to leave until they found us a solution. 3 employees, a lot of talking and after being told 850 rupees, we were aboard a taxi whose mission was to stop us in an ATM on the way to our hotel 35 kilometers away from the airport. 2 ATM later, the first being empty too, we were able to get some rupees.
Et voilà comment après 3 heures, nous sommes finalement arrivés à notre hôtel.
And this is how, 3 hours later, we made it to our hotel.
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| Très belle chambre au Regenta Central de Chennai - Very beautiful room at the Regenta Central of Chennai |
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| billet de 500 roupies - 500 rupees bank note |
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| Vue de notre hotel - view from our hotel |
And our first meal in India will be at our hotel with an Indian beer, Kingfisher and our first curry. Absolutely exquisite, fairly spicy but creamy and with many aromes!
Il n'est pas simple de circuler dans cette mégapole tentaculaire et pourtant notre chauffeur sans GPS, ni carte, sut exactement comment se faufiler entre les voitures, les camions, les scooters, les tuks tuks, les vaches, les locaux, les chiens pouilleux et les immondices dans les méandres de l'antre de la bête...à grands coups de Klaxon il est vrai mais après tout, ne sommes nous pas en Inde?
It's not easy to drive in this megalopolis. However, our driver, without a GPS nor a map, knew exactly how to slalom between the cars, the trucks, the scooters, the tuktuks, the cows, the locals, the dirty dogs and the debris with a great use of honkings. After all, aren't we in India ?
It's not easy to drive in this megalopolis. However, our driver, without a GPS nor a map, knew exactly how to slalom between the cars, the trucks, the scooters, the tuktuks, the cows, the locals, the dirty dogs and the debris with a great use of honkings. After all, aren't we in India ?
Chennai promettait d'être une ville sans intérêt, bruyante, polluée, sale et pourtant Françoise et moi avons trouvé l'expérience tout à fait intéressante. Nous étions plongés dans un monde différent sans aucune comparaison possible. La vie grouille sous toutes ses formes. Ici, on y travaille souvent dans des conditions improbables, on y dort sur un trottoir, un banc, dans un hall de gare, on négocie, on achète, on vend, quelque soit l'endroit où l'on se trouve, quelque chose se passe.
We had read that Chennai had not much interest with its reputation of being noisy, polluted, dirty. However, both Françoise and I enjoyed it. We were drowned in another world with nothing comparable to what we have experienced before. Life abounds everywhere. People work in unbelievable conditions, one sleep on the pedestrian walks, on a bench, in a train station. People negotiate, sell, buy, anywhere you look, there is something happening.
We had read that Chennai had not much interest with its reputation of being noisy, polluted, dirty. However, both Françoise and I enjoyed it. We were drowned in another world with nothing comparable to what we have experienced before. Life abounds everywhere. People work in unbelievable conditions, one sleep on the pedestrian walks, on a bench, in a train station. People negotiate, sell, buy, anywhere you look, there is something happening.
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| On se déplace en tuktuk, alors masque pour se protéger un peu de la pollution est de rigueur. We ride with a tuktuk, then to protect ourselves just a little bit from the pollution, we are wearing a mask. |
Le quartier de Georgetown vaut à lui seul de nombreuses photos. Le quartier dans lequel chaque rue voir ruelle commerçante, parfois presque insalubre possède sa spécialité, comme l'équipement médical, les ferblantiers, le matériel électronique, les fleurs, etc. Impossible de flâner tranquillement, d'ailleurs je pense que ce mot n'a pas sa place dans ce capharnaüm...mais quelle vie, c'est complètement fou. Visiblement le touriste n'y a pas trouvé sa place !
The Georgetown neighbourhood is worth many pictures. Each street, sometimes almost substandard, has its own specialty, one with medical equipment, another one with electronics, or flowers. Impossible to wander around in peace. The word peace around here does probably not exist... it's quite incredible. No tourists either!
Et les odeurs dans la ville !!! ici, beaucoup de chance... parfum de roses !
And the smells in the city !!! here, we are lucky... perfume of roses !
The Georgetown neighbourhood is worth many pictures. Each street, sometimes almost substandard, has its own specialty, one with medical equipment, another one with electronics, or flowers. Impossible to wander around in peace. The word peace around here does probably not exist... it's quite incredible. No tourists either!
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| Une vache dans une ville de 11 millions d'habitants, surprenant, non ? A cow in a city with 11 million inhabitants, surprising, isn't it ? |
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| Encore une ! Another one ! |
And the smells in the city !!! here, we are lucky... perfume of roses !
Et puis, me direz vous, la carte SIM , ça y est, vous l'avez acheté? Qu'on vous raconte. D'abord, on a bien compris qu'un indien préfère vous induire en erreur plutôt que d'avouer leur impuissance. Ça, nous l'avions expérimenté à l'aéroport. Pour la carte SIM , ce fut là aussi toute une patience. Le premier magasin, presqu'en face de notre hôtel nous informe que oui, il vend des cartes SIM mais qu'il fallait revenir dans 1 heure. Pourquoi ? Mystère...
Back to our SIM card, let's tell you what happened. First, we have now understood that people from India, instead of admitting they may not take any decisions, will tell you to go somewhere else. You just need to be patient and not lose your temper. We had already experienced this at the airport. For the SIM Card, same thing. The first store across our hotel told us we could buy it there, but we had to come back in an hour. Why ? no idea...
Back to our SIM card, let's tell you what happened. First, we have now understood that people from India, instead of admitting they may not take any decisions, will tell you to go somewhere else. You just need to be patient and not lose your temper. We had already experienced this at the airport. For the SIM Card, same thing. The first store across our hotel told us we could buy it there, but we had to come back in an hour. Why ? no idea...
Au cœur de la ville, c'est de magasin en magasin qu'on nous avise que eux ne vendent pas de cartes SIM aux étrangers car il faut une pièce d'identité indienne mais que celui d'à côté, c'est sûr, c'est possible. Dodelinement de la tête et sourire !!! À chaque fois, c'est l'espoir qui nous pousse à continuer et toujours la même rengaine, allez un peu plus loin chez Airtel ou Vodafone, ou etc.
In the city, from store to store, we are being told that they cannot sell us a SIM card as we need an Indian proof of idea, but for sure, if we go to the next store, they will do it! Nod of the head from left to right with a smile ! Each time, our hope grows and we keep on going a little bit further to go check with Airtel or Vodafone...
In the city, from store to store, we are being told that they cannot sell us a SIM card as we need an Indian proof of idea, but for sure, if we go to the next store, they will do it! Nod of the head from left to right with a smile ! Each time, our hope grows and we keep on going a little bit further to go check with Airtel or Vodafone...
Finalement, nous avons réussi à obtenir cette fameuse carte SIM grâce à un vendeur qui voulait arrondir ses rentrées d'argent ($10 pour un mois de service). Nous, finalement, nous étions contents de pouvoir finalement utiliser notre cellulaire sans plus de problème.
In the end, we were able to get the SIM card by paying more than a local. Who cares? we paid the equivalent of 10$ but we can now use our phone without any problem.
In the end, we were able to get the SIM card by paying more than a local. Who cares? we paid the equivalent of 10$ but we can now use our phone without any problem.
Chennai et son bord de mer, la plage y est immense tant en longueur qu'en largeur. Elle n'en vaut cependant pas le détour. Les détritus laissés par les échoppes provisoires installées sur le sable n'invitent pas à se mettre les pieds en éventail ou même à parcourir les quelques centaines de mètres de sable qui amène au bord de la mer. On y fait aussi un tas de choses qui n'ont rien à voir avec les joies de la mer et ce du fait d'habitude séculaire, du manque d'éducation et surtout d'installations sanitaires absentes (voir photos ci-dessous).
Chennai and its seaside: the beach is huge, very long but alo very wide. It's however not worth a stop. The debris left by the local stands on the sand don't really invite the tourists to relax or even to go up to the sea. One also make there a couple of things that has nothing to do with the pleasures of the sea, but probably because of old habits, lack of education and probably because of lack of sanitary installations.
Nous avons quand même visité le Fort St George et l'Eglise de St-Mary.
We have visited Fort St George and St Mary's Church.
Quelques photos supplémentaires de Chennai:
A few additional pictures of Chennai below:
Arjuna's Penance est la méditation d'Arjuna et qui présente la manière dont le fleuve Gange est descendu sur terre.
Arjuna's Penance is Arjuna's meditation which represents how the Gange River came down on earth.
D'après la légende, le Krishna Butter Ball est une boule de beurre laissée tomber négligemment par Krishna alors bébé.
According to the legend, the Krishna Butter Ball is a ball of butter that Krishna would have let down when he was a baby.
Et Mahabalipuram est connu pour ses sculpteurs sur granit et est l'un des plus grands centres de l'Inde du Sud de cet artisanat. Les pièces sont parfois assez incroyables. Ils sont formés localement dans un collège gouvernemental.
And Mahabalipuram is famous for its granite sculptors. It's one of the largest centre of this craft. The sculptures are quite incredible. The sculptors are trained locally in a governmental college.
Les 5 Rathas sont un ensemble de 5 temples construit du 6e au 8e siècles en forme de chars de procession (ratha).
The 5 Rathas are a group of 5 temples built between the 6 and 8th centuries in the shape of processional tanks.
Après nos deux premiers jours, nous sommes assez enthousiastes ! Nous prenons la route de Pondicherry dès le lendemain.
After our two first days, we are fairly enthusiastic ! We are hitting the road the following day to Pondicherry.
On the Road Again 3...
Ecrit par Alain - Written by Alain
Chennai and its seaside: the beach is huge, very long but alo very wide. It's however not worth a stop. The debris left by the local stands on the sand don't really invite the tourists to relax or even to go up to the sea. One also make there a couple of things that has nothing to do with the pleasures of the sea, but probably because of old habits, lack of education and probably because of lack of sanitary installations.
Nous avons quand même visité le Fort St George et l'Eglise de St-Mary.
We have visited Fort St George and St Mary's Church.
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| 1678-1680 |
Pour nous rendre au quartier de Georgetown nous avons dû prendre un train local au coût de 10 roupies pour 2. Rustique le train, mais bien pratique !
To go to Georgetown, we had to take a local train for the cost of 10 rupees for 2. A rustic train, but quite convenient !
Quelques photos supplémentaires de Chennai:
A few additional pictures of Chennai below:
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| La gare principale - The main train station |
Après Chennai, direction Mahabalipuram (ou Mamallapuram) via Uber. Un petit village ( enfin aux dimensions indiennes toutefois ) bien sympathique qui méritait bien quelques heures de visite. 3 places d'intérêt majeurs : Arjuna's Penance, The Shore Temple, Five Rathas.
After Chennai, we head to Mahabalipuram (or Mamallapuram) with a Uber car. A small village (in view of Indian dimensions), quite cozy and which was worth a few hours of visit. 3 main interesting site: Arjuna's Penance, the Shore Temple and the Five Rathas.
After Chennai, we head to Mahabalipuram (or Mamallapuram) with a Uber car. A small village (in view of Indian dimensions), quite cozy and which was worth a few hours of visit. 3 main interesting site: Arjuna's Penance, the Shore Temple and the Five Rathas.
Mahabalipuram possède une longue histoire car c'est d'ici que la civilisation des Pallava rayonna vers Bali, Sumatra et le Cambodge entre le 6 et 7e siècle. Maha signifie ''grand'', Bali ''sacrifice'' et Puram ''village'', donc le village du grand sacrifice. Les Pallava priaient la déesse Durga et effectuaient en son nom d'innombrables sacrifices d'animaux.
Mahabalipuram has a long history as it is from this point that the Pallava civilization went to Bali, Sumatra and Cambodia between the 6th and 7th century. Maha means ''big'', Bali ''sacrifice'' and Puram ''Village'', therefore the village of the big sacrifice. The pallava prayed Durga Goddess and made many animal sacrifices in her name.
Mahabalipuram has a long history as it is from this point that the Pallava civilization went to Bali, Sumatra and Cambodia between the 6th and 7th century. Maha means ''big'', Bali ''sacrifice'' and Puram ''Village'', therefore the village of the big sacrifice. The pallava prayed Durga Goddess and made many animal sacrifices in her name.
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| Arjuna's Penance |
Arjuna's Penance is Arjuna's meditation which represents how the Gange River came down on earth.
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| Scène champêtre (traite d'une bufflonnes) dans le Krishna Mandapa - Country scene (milking of a female bull) in the Krishna Mandapa |
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| Un chat dans l'attitude d'un yogi, en pleine méditation, alors que des rats et des souris dansent autour de lui ! A cat in a yogi pause meditating, when rats and mice are dancing around him ! |
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| Varaha Temple |
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| Draupadi's bath - le bain de Draupadi |
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| Krishna's butter ball, 250 tons, 6 meters high and 5 meters wide - 250 tonnes, 6 mètres de haut et 5 mètres de large |
According to the legend, the Krishna Butter Ball is a ball of butter that Krishna would have let down when he was a baby.
And Mahabalipuram is famous for its granite sculptors. It's one of the largest centre of this craft. The sculptures are quite incredible. The sculptors are trained locally in a governmental college.
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| La plage local - the local beach |
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| Devant le temple du bord de Mer - In front of the Shore Temple |
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| Et un groupe de motards français à notre hotel sur des Royal Enfield - And a group of French bikers at our hotel on Royal Enfields |
The 5 Rathas are a group of 5 temples built between the 6 and 8th centuries in the shape of processional tanks.
Et bien sûr, ici aussi, les vaches se promènent dans les rues.
And of course, here as well, the cows are wandering in the streets.
Après nos deux premiers jours, nous sommes assez enthousiastes ! Nous prenons la route de Pondicherry dès le lendemain.
After our two first days, we are fairly enthusiastic ! We are hitting the road the following day to Pondicherry.
On the Road Again 3...
Ecrit par Alain - Written by Alain
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