We decide to avoid Mar Del Plata. Considering the huge number of cars we cross which are returning to Buenos Aires, we believe that MDL will not be the place for us. In the end, we stop in a very quiet campground in Miramar. In the morning, we have coffee with an Argentinian who spent 5 years in Montreal. Our first day with the car was 500 kms, we just stop for gas and for a choripan. The second day is another 500 kms to Bahia Blanca. Same thing for the third day, 500 kms. Ruta 3 takes us from the pampa to the Atlantic Patagonia. The road and the scenery are monotonous, but this gives us an idea of the size of Argentina.
The speed limit is 80, 100 or 120, but the only driver we met trying to respect this limit is Alain. Now, he drives at 120 or 130 and he is still the snail. Here, the speed limit is only a concept as well as any other interdictions on the signs, like prohibited to pass. You have to be Argentinian or not, and passing another car at the top of the hill, without seeing anything is a must. Our trip takes us today to Carmen de Patagones, an historic village and from here we will go go Balnerio El Condor to go see the largest parrot colony in the world. These parrots reproduce on a cliff. The opportunity was there, but not the parrots (picture) Too bad !
We have now arrived at the Peninsula Valdes where we should see other ''bibites'' (animals) different from the ones we see in Quebec. Peninsula Valdes has been declared Patrimony of the Humanity since 1999. We will see sealions in Punta Piramides. You would believe that you are with sheeps, sealions that bleat, to say that they are as nice as lambs, there is only one step...
Today March 12, in Peninsula Valdes, the temperature dropped. We do prefer the heat. We will see guanacos, nandus, peludos. We will be able to see pinguins, very, very close.
At Peninsula Norte, we thought we would see orcas. Those who come here are killers, real ones. They come here to the Peninsula to eat the baby seals and for this, they use their own technique which is to fetch them directly onto the beach. Unfortunately, we won't see this spectacle today despite waiting... but our patience has still been rewarded by watching the sealions. It's a show in itself and we marvel at what we see again.
We have left Peninsula Valdes to head to the Reserve National of Punta Tombo. We will see there not only two-legged animals, but also some four-legged with many guanacos. A 3 km walk will enable us to discover the largest colony of Maggelans Pinguins. We thought that we would see them on the beach, but we are astonished to see that in fact, they nest far inland. They dig their hole and stay there until their babies will be big enough to swim independently.
One interesting fact and not the least interesting, they bray, exactly like donkeys. Incredible but true...
What is interesting when you travel is that you meet people along the way a few times. We had met with Paul, a German biker on a BMW who is travelling for about 6 months in South America. Well, we met him 3 days in a row. We promise to stay in touch and see each other again...
After the reserve, we take the road again on 135 kms of gravel where we cross 4 cars or pick-ups and are passed by only one. It's difficult to describe the Atlantic Patagonia. Some will say there is nothing to see, which is kind of true. There are miles and miles of road with nothing on both sides, just some very low shrubs and today, in fact, there were not even any shrubs, just some grass. We can see some sheeps from time to time, and we keep wondering where the ''estancias'' are. No roof on the horizon... Driving south to Patagonia is an experience anyway, as we do feel the length of the trip we have undertaken. At times, in the car, Alain and I are not saying anything anymore, long silences between both of us (it does happen), as we are submerged by the size of this country. Since we have begun this trip, very few roads have given us this sensation, some parts in the deserts in New Mexico and Arizona, driving through the desert of Atacama in Chile and now, this road. And we probably have another couple of days in front of us driving south.
Yes, tomorrow, we are On the Road Again...
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