End of Ushuaia, El Calafate (Perito Moreno Glacier) and El Chalten (March 20-24, 2011)

We left Ushuaia under the sun. Another nice view,

some more mountains and then Patagonia, the same way we saw it on our way down, flat with guanacos with some curves, and some hills. After 9 hours of travelling, we arrive in El Calafate and once again we get acquainted with dormitories (4 in a room). In fact, for us, the most difficult is to climb on the top of the bunk beds. Whenever we can, we try to get the bottom beds, but we don't always have that luck ! The funny thing in this hostel was the guy, Guido, who welcomed us. Just try to imagine him, hair in a rasta style, just blond hair instead of dark, young.... Alain was already thinking : ''Great, Peace and Love again... Just young people here... Noise for us tonight...'' but in the end, it worked well, we stayed 2 nights there and it was quiet.

El Calafate is not extraordinary and we are anxious to go see the Perito Moreno Glacier. We will spend a full day at the Glacier. Located about 75 kms of El Calafate, Perito Moreno is a Must See ! We had never seen such a living glacier. The nature is the boss here. The colours of the glacier are amazing too ! white, bluish and blue ! This glacier does not stop cracking, almost like gun shots and with some patience you can also see some huge chunks of ice tumbling down in the ocean.

3 hours away from El Calafate, we arrive in El Chalten. El Chalten is surrounded by mountains. After driving from El Calafate, finding our hotel for the night, we decide to start a hike to go see Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre....The hike takes us 5 hours, but despite the cold and foremost the wind, the hike was worth it... We go back to our cell, (again, I end up in the top bunk bed, although at least we have a private room this time)


exhausted but happy from our day. The following day, we put our running shoes on again (no hiking shoes, no room) and we start the hike called : Lago de Los Tres. A sportive hike, 4 hours one way, very steep at the beginning and mainly at the end. This leads us to the foot of the Fitz Roy with a lake on the right with two glaciers on its sides. Unfortunately, it's very cloudy, cold (it's snowing) and again, the wind is terrible. At different times, we have to stop walking to hang on to the rocks or just kneel down. It's really dangerous. The wind is probably around 150-180 kilometers per hour.

We have wind and rain all the way down. We arrive extremely exhausted at our hotel and to reward us of this strenuous hike, we eat in a restaurant. Food and service are this time excellent. Oh yes,  by the way, we haven't always been happy with the service in the Argentinian Restaurants, therefore we have tried a new approach ! I go now every time with my journal and when the waiter arrives, I start writing the name of the Restaurant. Maybe a coincidence, but since I have started this, no issues anymore with service or bills....Very good day, altogether !

First picture is a quinoa cake with got cheese and the second pasta filled with chicken in a cream sauce... yummy!

It's already time to leave El Chalten and tomorrow it's On The Road Again to El Bolson...

The last kilometers, our arrival in Ushuaia, and Ushuaia, Argentina

From Puerto San Julian to Rio Gallegos, still kilometers and always more kilometers... It's long and often monotonous, but it is still an incredible experience. To cross Patagonia, at our pace, will remain something fantastic in our hearts. Rio Gallegos to Rio Grande, another 350 kms, we will cross the Chilean border and the Argentinian border and will cross the Strait of Magellan to end up on Tierra del Fuego.

We have seen again guanacos and nandus everywhere on the way. They have become part of our daily life and scenery.

Our objective of Tierra del Fuego, the end of the world, the beginning of everything, is approaching and the excitement is slightly mounting.The last 100 kms, we are really excited, stop every few kilometers to take pictures of the road signs, the 3000 kms road sign on Ruta 3 deserves a picture.

We are not talking anymore together as we are both thinking about our arrival. The emotions are increasing as we know we are reaching one major goal of our trip. The last kilometers before our arrival is very different from the steppes we have crossed. Here we find again the trees, the mountains, the cold and the wind. It reminds us slightly of British Colombia. It is with emotion that we take the traditional picture of our arrival in Ushuaia, the most southern city in the world.

 In short, we are happy, even if we think that we are back home in Montreal because of the temperature. The weather is sunny at times, cloudy at other times, but a little bit chilly.

Yesterday, we have done a boat tour on the Beagle canal. Ushuaia is not really a pretty town, but the settings of the town is amazing, surrounded by mountains. We enjoy the scenery and are just happy to be here.

Ushuaia and beyond : Today, March 19th, we went to the Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, created in 1960. It's a 63000 ha park which also hosted the Yamanas. These tribes don't exist anymore. They disappeared with the Europeans who brought all kinds of diseases. The park Tierra del Fuego is also the end of the Road, the end of the Ruta 3 in Lapataia, 22kms after Ushuaia. It's the end, you cannot go any further and we take the real picture that all bikers have on their blogs. We are thrilled !
 
 

Tomorrow, we are On the Road Again to...

Peninsula Valdes and Punta Tombo, Argentina (March8-14, 2011)

We decide to avoid Mar Del Plata. Considering the huge number of cars we cross which are returning to Buenos Aires, we believe that MDL will not be the place for us. In the end, we stop in a very quiet campground in Miramar. In the morning, we have coffee with an Argentinian who spent 5 years in Montreal. Our first day with the car was 500 kms, we just stop for gas and for a choripan. The second day is another 500 kms to Bahia Blanca. Same thing for the third day, 500 kms. Ruta 3 takes us from the pampa to the Atlantic Patagonia. The road and the scenery are monotonous, but this gives us an idea of the size of Argentina.

The speed limit is 80, 100 or 120, but the only driver we met trying to respect this limit is Alain. Now, he drives at 120 or 130 and he is still the snail. Here, the speed limit is only a concept as well as any other interdictions on the signs, like prohibited to pass. You have to be Argentinian or not, and passing another car at the top of the hill, without seeing anything is a must. Our trip takes us today to Carmen de Patagones, an historic village and from here we will go go Balnerio El Condor to go see the largest parrot colony in the world. These parrots reproduce on a cliff. The opportunity was there, but not the parrots (picture) Too bad !

We have now arrived at the Peninsula Valdes where we should see other ''bibites'' (animals) different from the ones we see in Quebec. Peninsula Valdes has been declared Patrimony of the Humanity since 1999. We will see sealions in Punta Piramides. You would believe that you are with sheeps, sealions that bleat, to say that they are as nice as lambs, there is only one step...

Today March 12, in Peninsula Valdes, the temperature dropped. We do prefer the heat. We will see guanacos, nandus, peludos. We will be able to see pinguins, very, very close.

At Peninsula Norte, we thought we would see orcas. Those who come here are killers, real ones. They come here to the Peninsula to eat the baby seals and for this, they use their own technique which is to fetch them directly onto the beach. Unfortunately, we won't see this spectacle today despite waiting... but our patience has still been rewarded by watching the sealions. It's a show in itself and we marvel at what we see again.

We have left Peninsula Valdes to head to the Reserve National of Punta Tombo. We will see there not only two-legged animals, but also some four-legged with many guanacos. A 3 km walk will enable us to discover the largest colony of Maggelans Pinguins. We thought that we would see them on the beach, but we are astonished to see that in fact, they nest far inland. They dig their hole and stay there until their babies will be big enough to swim independently.

One interesting fact and not the least interesting, they bray, exactly like donkeys. Incredible but true...

What is interesting when you travel is that you meet people along the way a few times. We had met with Paul, a German biker on a BMW who is travelling for about 6 months in South America. Well, we met him 3 days in a row. We promise to stay in touch and see each other again...

After the reserve, we take the road again on 135 kms of gravel where we cross 4 cars or pick-ups and are passed by only one. It's difficult to describe the Atlantic Patagonia. Some will say there is nothing to see, which is kind of true. There are miles and miles of road with nothing on both sides, just some very low shrubs and today, in fact, there were not even any shrubs, just some grass. We can see some sheeps from time to time, and we keep wondering where the ''estancias'' are. No roof on the horizon... Driving south to Patagonia is an experience anyway, as we do feel the length of the trip we have undertaken. At times, in the car, Alain and I are not saying anything anymore, long silences between both of us (it does happen), as we are submerged by the size of this country. Since we have begun this trip, very few roads have given us this sensation, some parts in the deserts in New Mexico and Arizona, driving through the desert of Atacama in Chile and now, this road. And we probably have another couple of days in front of us driving south.
 

Yes, tomorrow, we are On the Road Again...

Buenos Aires, Argentina (March 3 to March7, 2011)

We said goodbye to our host, Christian in el Hostal Del Barrio in Santiago, as scheduled on March 3, 2011

We get lost on our way to the airport, but after some slight nervosity in the air, everything returns back to normal. After Chile, follow us to

Argentina !

The first day, we discover the city on foot. Buenos Aires has Parisian airs, the influence of French architecture is in many places. It's a very large city (14 millions inhabitants with its suburbs), it's lively, very noisy but with many parks, activities, cars, buses, motorcycles that zoom by and around you, restaurants filled very early in the morning to very late at night. By the way, Buenos Aires is the home of the widest avenue in the world, Avenida 9 de Julio, 140 meters wide at his largest, with 16 lanes in total ! it took us 3 traffic lights on foot to cross it the first time ! The obelisk in the middle of the avenue is 67 meters high and was constructed in 1936 within one month.

We have decided to take advantage of the city bus tours for 2 days, where you can hop in and hop out. We will thus learn more about B.A. and its history, get a first good look and therefore be able to decide where we would like to come back.

We visit the Fine Arts Museum, the Pilar Church and the Recoletta Cemetary where Eva Duarde de Perron has been buried. She was loved by her people and still many years later, fresh flowers are on the tomb. She died at the age of 33 from cancer.

The Recoletta Cemetary also reminds us slightly (although much smaller) of the ``Cimetière du Père Lachaise'' in Paris with its many monuments.

Our third night in BA, there is the "Carnaval". It's not Rio de Janeiro, but it's lively, familial and fun. People dance and join the party in the streets.

We only eat a Choripan (sausage with a piece of bread), as we are not very hungry. We had eaten a delicious Pizza at "Guerrin'' with lots of cheese, oignons and ham !

It is important to note that BA owes a lot to its Italian community, namely from Genoa, who immigrated here in the 1880's.

That night was not the best (what a surprise !), not because of the hostel's clients, but because of the noise in the street. The mood is not the best in the morning, as in addition, there is no light, no hydro and therefore no breakfast ! We head for a small bar recommended by the Guide du Routard. We are disappointed by the service, we wait for a long time and it's expensive. No tip ! The mood has not improved yet. We decide to walk through the streets of San Telmo and although it is still early, the streets have been invaded by people. You have kilometers of stands of all kinds, many antiques. We are surprised by the talent of some of the artists and their creativity, not one stand is the same. Absolutely a Must see, when you are in B.A.

Our next stop is the neighbourhood of ``La Boca``, which means mouth in French, as this historical quarter is located at the mouth of the River Plata. This neighbourhood is colourful, very popular and extremely touristic, but still fun to see ! ... and what would La Boca be without its demonstrations of ``Tangos`` for the tourists ?

Alain et Lucille, on pense a vous, les amateurs de danse et de tango surtout !

A lone woman, dressed in a slit skirt and high heels casually looks here and there. Her gaze locks onto a stranger`s eyes and there it is, the pair head out towards the dance floor. This is the spirit of tango, seduction, sensuality with faces almost touching. No wonder this dance was scandalous at one time ! Its origin comes from the bordelos in the 1880`s of Buenos Aires and it reached his peak with the singer, Carlos Gardel (born in France) who came to Argentina with his mother at the age of 3.

We take the bus again, stop in the Puerto Madeiro where we can see the bridge dedicated to women ``El Puente de la mujer``.

We are exhausted at the end of the day again...

The night has been slightly better and the mood is now better. We take the bus again, make some pictures of the Eva Perron statue and walk to Floralis Generica Monument.

We walk and walk and walk again, stop for a coffee, then decide that we deserve... another pizza. Looks good, huh ? Yummy, too ! with some Argentinan wine, of course.... and for those who have been wondering about our many pictures of food,  please don't forget, that one of our goals during our trip is to enjoy food ! and wine or the local alcohol !

A couple more pictures and we finally head back to our hostel.

Four full days in Buenos Aires is a minimum to spend. A lot to see, a lot to do and a lot to enjoy ! Another coup de coeur during our trip !
Tomorrow, we leave B.A. and we are On the Road Again... to Al Sur...

End of our trip in Chile (Feb 28 to March2, 2011)

We have spent the last three days visiting La Serena, Coquimbo

and Tongoy, a small village known as the capitol of the ''scallops'' (more exactly in French, les Coquilles Saint Jacques). Both La Serena and Coquimbo are balnear cities, not extraordinary with long beaches though. We very much enjoyed Tongoy where we lazily spent a couple of days on the beach. Time again to see beautiful sunsets

and enjoying, of course, the local food, the " ostiones con Parmesano'' or ''A la pil pil''. The bowl was so impressive that we decided to count the scallops and it was an amazing 36 score in every bowl !

We are now back in Santiago where we will be catching a plane tomorrow to Buenos Aires, Argentina ! On the Road Again....