Thursday, February 3, 2011

IX Region de la Araucania with 3 of the many volcanoes (Jan26 to Feb2,2011)

We have now left Oscar and Alicia at 10:30 am. It is sad to leave them, but our trip has to continue. We went to Chillan and the Chillan terms but the weather not being great, we decided to move on. We ended up camping in a small village. We are the only campers and paid $ 4,000 pesos for the night. Cold showers, hens, chickens, cows, horses and dogs, we have it all in this campground. It's like being in a farm !We did not sleep much either again, as the dogs barked almost all night. These small inconveniences are greatly compensated by the kindness of the owners of the campground, who invited us last night for an Asado (chilean BBQ)








Today, we decided that our next destination would be the Volcanoe Lonquimay. By 3 pm, we have already found our campsite, much more expensive, but much cleaner, with hot showers. Yeah ! The scenery from the campground already is spectacular and we have enough time to hike up a trail, The Navidad Crater in the Reserva Nacional Malalcahuello-Nalcas. Malalcahuello means ''Horse Corral" in Mapundungun and Nalcas refers to a native plant found in the reserve that has an edible stalk. Crater Navidad takes its name from its last eruption on December 25, 1988. The views from the top of the crater are absolutely spectacular and this time, we feel like we have seen and walked on the moon !






The following day, despite a grey sky (we woke up literally in the clouds), we decide to stay a second night and to have our first real outing in the mountains of Chile. Therefore, for once, wearing jeans and dressed a little bit warmer than usual, we go on a 7 hour hike (about 20-25 kms), Sendero Pierra Santa. The hike was worth it, wonderful scenery all the way. A little cold, a little long, very tiring, but how lucky we feel to discover Chile from the top. Below the Lonquimay Volcano.





Our second day camping close to the Reserva Malalcahuello-Nalcas, we wake up under a bright blue sky and we take the road to Melipeuco to meet our third volcano. The road is magnificent, even if we are getting some sweats because of the Chilean drivers. On the road, we can see from far another volcano, which is a little bit like a cigarette, and let some smoke out. We arrive at the Pension Negrita, which was recommended to us by Arturo, a guide we met in Santiago. This pension is by far the most economical so far, 10,000 pesos for two for one night, including breakfast. The place is clean and we have our own bathroom with a view directly on the Llaima volcano. We have internet too, although not in the bedroom. The shower is cold in the morning, but nonetheless, this wakes us up and after a hearty breakfast, we head to the Conguillio park in order to view the Llaima Volcano at 3125 m. Its last eruption took place January 1st, 1988. In fact, the road leading to our trail was carved in lava. Our trail, Sierra Nevada, (about 7 hour total again) took us to about 2000 meters. The trail was relatively easy, except at the end, where it was more climbing than hiking. We had a wonderful view from the top.



Back at the Pension Negrita, we do enjoy a warm shower this time and after a good bottle of beer, (we have seen somewhere it was good to drink beer after an effort !), we also decide to have supper there for 4000 pesos for both of us. A deal and it is good!

The following day, we leave for Pucon and find another camping ! We are at the foot of the smoking volcano, the Villerica Volcano and we pay 7,500 pesos for a night, after ensuring that we would be given an extra blanket... We are starting to get smart and the locals understand that coming from Canada, we may not have absolutely everything we need. The city of Pucon lacks any originality : it almost looks like Whistler or St-Sauveur, the perfect spot for someone who has 8 days of vacation and a ton of money to spend. Not our case ! No real local taste. Anyway, our first night of camping close to Pucon is great thanks to the blanket... except that once again, our neighbours live at night and until 2pm, there are talking, singing, listening to music. Anyway, we head up in a good mood in the morning to the volcan Villericay and for us the ''smoking volcano''. At the entrance of the park, we are being told that it is the perfect day and after paying 6000 pesos for the park fee, we happily drive the car to the trail start ! The view is splendid. We are first surprised by the temperature, but we tell ourselves that we will get warmer as we walk. One hour later, the sky gets darker, the wind is freezing and of course, the view on the summit stays out of sight. In short, after a 3 hour walk, we head back. We are happy anyway, as this was our training of the day.


Back to our campground, Alain is lucky enough to get a hot shower, but somehow I don't get any hot water anymore ! Nevertheless, I shower in freezing water and after this, we head up to a local restaurant, La Yunta, where we eat for the first time, the ''Humitas'', a kind of corn puree cooked in the carn leaves with a bottle of ''Gato San Pedro''. The owner of the restaurant even comes to greet us and explain that one of his friend has left Chile to live in Canada. The meal is excellent, the wine is decent and thanks to our extra blanket, we are almost eager to go back to our tent and get warm !

Our night was not as good as anticipate, as despite the extra comforter, we have been cold during the night. As decided the evening before, we leave for Frutillar !

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